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What failsafe dishes can I take to a picnic? They’re so often disappointing.
Alice, by email
Ah, picnics … Idyllic in theory, tricky in execution. We’re really talking about food that’s structurally sound (and therefore travels well), can be eaten alone (or with salad) and is comfortable when left to sit around for a bit, which is why the humble scotch egg is such a strong contender. “I’d definitely bring a plastic container full of those,” says Luke Larsson, head chef and co-owner of Khao Bird in Soho, London, who, perhaps unsurprisingly, favours a Thai-style version. “Ours start with a soft-boiled egg wrapped in sai oua sausagemeat, which is a northern Thai sausage packed with turmeric, chilli, herbs and aromatics,” he says. That’s then coated in panko breadcrumbs and deep-fried. “Leave to cool slightly before packing them up, so they stay crisp,” Larsson adds, and pack some chilli jam or nam jim for dipping.

“I’m a big believer that picnic food should feel nostalgic,” Larsson says. “Unfussy things that you actually want to eat on the grass with a drink in hand.” Which brings us nicely to the jambon beurre, a sandwich that’s often demolished by Manon Lagrève, author of La Saison, after a family bike ride in France. “It’s always an occasion to make a delicious sandwich,” she says, so “get the best baguette you can, ham from the butcher’s, then I like to add comté and a few cornichons. And don’t forget the salted butter.” Rather than messing about with constructing barriers to stop any moisture from soaking into the bread, Lagrève recommends packing all the elements individually, popping them in a cool bag and constructing the sandwiches on arrival: “That enhances the picnic vibe too.”

A selection of paté, terrine and rillettes are also ideal for taking to the park. “It’s the best time to eat them, and you don’t have to worry about transportation, either,” Lagrève says. Something “fresh on the side” is also nice, but that doesn’t mean you need to get all fancy: a supermarket sweep for jars of grilled artichokes, stuffed peppers and the like should suffice. “For pudding, pick up some nice goat’s cheese and jam,” says Lagrève. “Although that would make a delicious sandwich too.”

However, if, like Emily Roux, co-owner of Caractère in west London, a sandwich “never really satisfies”, pack up some arancini instead. She makes a risotto base, then mixes in grated pecorino and parmesan and lots of crushed black pepper for a cacio e pepe twist: “Once breaded, keep them in the freezer ready to fry as and when, so they’re perfect for any last-minute adventures.”

Otherwise, there are dips, of course, and salads (remember Meera Sodha’s freekeh number with fennel, tofu and apple from a few weeks back?), but a quiche done correctly is hard to beat, says Miles Tuddenham, co-founder of Roam in Devon. That said, it’s also worth having some good-quality tinned fish in tow, he says: “Tinned anchovies, sardines or tuna served with sliced red onion, crusty bread, olive oil and a touch of salt may feel incredibly simple, but it’s also quite luxurious when you’re sitting outside with a glass of wine. The trick is editing rather than overbuying: a few very good things will always beat an overloaded picnic.”