silverguide.site –

Chilling out in La Rioja

Recently travelling from Madrid to San Sebastián, we spent three days in picturesque Briñas in La Rioja, staying at the beautiful Finca Torre de Briñas (doubles from €189 B&B). The neighbouring town, Haro, reached via a 40-minute walk by the Ebro River, hosts several of the largest wine producers in the region (CVNE and Muga are recommended). You can stop in and sample them, before heading into the town centre, which has several tapas spots to fuel the walk back to the hotel. Bliss.
Tom Dickson

Forests and badlands in Murcia

Less than an hour’s drive – yet a world away – from the bustling Murcia coast sits the brooding Sierra Espuña mountain range, a green respite from the summer heat and the site of a rewilding project started more than a century ago. After a morning’s hike through the shady pines, we drove up a switchback mountain road to check out the 16th-century Pozos de la Nieve, and descended steps into a silent, cavernous interior. Come summer, stored ice was hauled by horse and cart from here down to wealthy city folk. Our return route passed the Barrancos de Gebas, a lunar “badlands” landscape formed from a seabed more than 10m years ago. There were few other visitors and it felt like our secret.
Cathy Robinson

Terraced vineyards in Galicia’s gorges

Forest fires in the Picos mountains led us on a detour via the Ribeira Sacra, a wine region in inland Galicia. The area is characterised by the deep canyons of the Sil and Miño rivers, and the steep-sided banks are lined with terraced vineyards, the grapes benefiting from the delicate ecosystem the gorges create. We swam in waterfalls, drank wine and walked among the narrow terraces. A highlight was the walk at the top of the Miradoiro de Souto Chao (the Grape Pickers’ Viewpoint). The views were stunning: tranquil, natural and barely a tourist in sight.
Ruth Chapman

A fairytale town in Navarre

A medieval settlement rising above the sparse landscape of Navarre province, Gallipienzo is the stuff of fairytales. Before beginning our ascent on the winding road to the old town, we took a dip in the Aragón River, much needed after sightseeing in scorching Pamplona. Arriving at Hotel Heredad Beragu (doubles from €109 B&B), we were given a warm welcome by Patxi and Ramón, who have turned an old farmstead into a chic getaway. After a sunset walk, soaking up views of the surrounding countryside framed by ramshackle doorways, we headed back to the hotel for a locally sourced dinner, rather smug to have discovered this gateway to the past.
Anna

Bridge to the Basque Country

The city of Bilbao is deservedly popular. But take a 25-minute train ride along the Nervión River to the coast and you will arrive in Portugalete. Head straight to the Crepería Miramar for great coffee and a perfect tortilla. The cafe sits on the estuary in the shadow of the wonderful Vizcaya Bridge. Built in 1893, it is the world’s oldest transporter bridge, a Unesco world heritage site, and the perfect combination of beauty and function. For €1 take a trip on the transporter over to Getxo and walk around the bay to the lovely fishing village of Algorta. A perfect day.
Michael Quinn

Exploring the Alpujarras, near Granada

Last month, I was delighted to find the almond blossom out while walking the Ruta Medieval in the Alpujarran municipality of La Taha. This year, after the disastrous storms in the south, no hike has been without hazards – landslides and fallen trees – so an app such as Wikiloc is essential to find detours. If you don’t have a car, a bus stops at Pitres, the start of the waymarked trail along ancient cobbled paths, through whitewashed, flat-roofed Moorish villages that hang on the side of the gorge created by the River Trevélez. There are various options after Ferreirola. A strenuous climb through Atalbéitar to Pórtugos, or a gentler one to Busquístar. Both have a bus back to Pitres or onwards to Órgiva (of Chris Stewart, Driving Over Lemons, fame) or even Granada.
Laura

Medieval gems in Léon

We arrived in Ponferrada on foot as part of our Camino de Santiago walk, so we could see the town looming up ahead of us well in advance. As well as an attractive centre with old buildings, restaurants, and bars serving the famous Bierzo wine, the most famous thing about Ponferrada is its huge Disney-like castle, thought to have been built by the Knights Templar, which not only hosts mock-medieval pageants but also contains a stunning collection of manuscripts and maps. After our journey from the lovely mountain village of El Acebo, we still found the energy to do the extra couple of miles uphill in the sun to visit the tiny romanesque church of Santo Tomás de las Ollas, which for me was worth a dozen castles.
Barbara Forbes

A spectacular slow rail trip from Santander

We got off the ferry at Santander and took a train on the narrow-gauge railway heading west. The slow and spectacular former Feve (now operated by Renfe) line runs along the northern Spanish coast towards Oviedo and Ferrol. We stopped off at coastal villages Llanes and San Vicente, and found great value places to stay, good local wine and excellent restaurants. Viveiro was another excellent stop where restaurants served cloudy white wine in ceramic jugs to accompany the wonderful seafood. Lonely and dramatic beaches complete the idyll. We had a lot of time so were able to absorb all this wonderful coast could offer before heading down towards Vigo and Porto by train.
Alan White

A stunning find near Girona

The stunning medieval town of Peratallada made a peaceful base for exploring the Empordà region in September. Against cloudless, azure skies, its caramel-coloured walls and arches dripped with red campsis and bougainvillea. It’s an excellent day trip from Girona (20 miles away) and towns on the Costa Brava, but it’s worth more of your time. Climb the Torre de las Horas bell tower (free; visitor numbers restricted) for great views, and work your way around the welcoming shops, cafes and restaurants. Particular favourites were Restaurant La Roca and DO Candelaria.
Kay Julier

Winning tip: Hanging in Cuenca

In the Castilla-La Mancha mountains east of Madrid, I visited the Unesco world heritage city of Cuenca. Sitting proudly upon its plateau and ensnared by the Júcar and Huécar rivers, this city offers spectacular vistas. To take advantage of the views and the otherworldly karst rock giants, hike the 4-mile circular route through pine forest, finishing with a sunset over the medieval city. Add to that a free abstract art museum vertiginously perched within the Casas Colgadas, and a beautifully-lit labyrinth of streets after dusk, and Cuenca is a perfect town to visit off the beaten track.
James Mulligan